Open since 2013, City Pork has been a bellwether in Baton Rouge’s evolving dining scene, serving artisan barbecue and charcuterie and inventive Southern fare. The concept started as a deli under the Perkins Road Overpass, expanding a year later to a larger restaurant with an expanded menu that continues to introduce new ideas. Chef Ryan Andre, now at Soji, helped open the eatery. Today, it’s led by Chef Rey Atlas Bey.
The 120-seat brasserie tackles every day part: weekday breakfast, lunch, dinner and weekend brunch. Diners opt for indoor or patio seating and choose from a line-up that includes small plates, signature sandwiches, salads and entrees. Pork commands a big presence, of course, with shareables like the pork belly steam buns, in which bourbon-glazed pork belly is served in an open-faced bao wrapper with pickled onion, pickled carrot, alfalfa sprouts and peanut sauce. Beyond pork, the panéed redfish features a sautéed Gulf redfish fillet topped with jumbo lump crabmeat and a lemon, caper butter sauce studded with bits of house-cured prosciutto. Managing partner Stephen Hightower says the dish is in keeping with the brasserie’s variety.
City Pork’s management group also maintains deli-style locations in the LSU College of Design and on Government Street. Both spots serve the meat-centric sandwiches that first gave the concept traction, including the top-selling Big Pig and close second, Cubano.
In April, the management group closed the original Overpass location due to uncertainty about the expansion of Interstate 10 at the same time the restaurant was eager to expand. “It was a hard decision,” says Hightower. “But we’re eager to find another location and get back to the area.”