‘225’: Local chefs taking B.R. culinary culture to the next level

When nationally renowned Chef Donald Link was considering a second location for his phenomenally successful New Orleans restaurant, Cochon—an “upscale Cajun” eatery that has been referred to as one of the Crescent City’s best by The New York Times and USA Today—he considered Baton Rouge, where he had cut his teeth at Sammy’s Grill. At least, he considered it briefly. “I did think about it,” he says, pausing, then laughing without elaborating. In part, the former Baton Rougean’s decision was economic: He wasn’t sure the Capital City’s market would be willing to pay a hefty premium for the organic chicken, rabbit and ribs that are his staples. His decision was based on something more intangible, too: His less-than-flattering perception of our restaurant culture. “Baton Rouge has a lot of places to eat, but it doesn’t have a great restaurant culture,” Link says. “God help any place there that doesn’t serve burgers and beer.” That’s not entirely fair, of course. Baton Rouge eateries have more to offer than pub fare. But Link is correct in that Baton Rouge is long on places to get a decent meal, but short on the unique, locally owned bistros, cafés and neighborhood restaurants that feature innovative or experimental dishes. Yet the local dining culture is changing—and for the better. Read the complete cover story from the new issue of 225 by Stephanie Riegel here.